This Season's Fleeces from New Zealand – 2010

The fleeces we received this year are exceptionally lovely. As usual we had a blast sorting, touching, smelling and labeling all the fleeces. There weren't many I did not want to just sit and spin right then and there. Have fun choosing!

The information below regarding breeds is from New Zealand Sheep and Their Wool published by Wools of New Zealand and New Zealand and Its Sheep by Godfrey Bowen and also provided to us by Ashford Handicrafts.

We have lifted our one fleece limit! Please include the fleece number, breed and weight in your order. As well, it is advisable to include a second and even third choice in case your first has been spoken for.

Pricing
All fleeces except Merino – $26.50/kg ($12.05/lb)
Merino – $29.50/kg ($13.40/lb)

On Sale! $20.50/kg ($9.30/lb)

Notes
1. Prices in Canadian funds.
2. Weights in kilograms. 1 kg = 2.2 lbs
3. Fleece numbers with an A or B at the end are one half of a fleece.

Breeds

*** If you would like an advance listing of next year's specialty fleeces, please send us your email and phone number and we will contact you in January 2011.

email: info@treenwaysilks.com | call toll free: 1.888.383.7455

→ For natural and dyed wool rovings, see Ashford products.

A New Experience in Spinning (down like wool)

By Marion Cameron, Masterton, New Zealand

We live on 4.5 hectares (11.5) acres on the outskirts of Mastertone in Wairarapa, in the North Island of New Zealand. We have a flock of 50 sheep of varying shades of brown (morrit) and grey, with a few white. Although the original stock was basically Romney we have concentrated on breeding more down–type wool because I enjoy its elasticity and bounce. Down–type wools are short (1–3 inches) compared to other wools such as crossbred or Merino–type wools and do not show the distinctive crimp patterns of these wools. They do not felt but produce very elastic and bouncy yarns. These are the qualities I enjoy.

I spin the short wool straight from the fleece (without carding). I work with small groups of staples spinning mostly from the CUT END. With a good fleece the fibres just spin themselves as easily as a carded fleece. Sometimes parts of the fleece may need the top opened to remove rubbish but it usually just falls out anyway. I have tried hand carding or combing the fleece before spinning but unless you spin the wool immediately there is no advantage (as the fibres bounce back to their natural state) and you might as well spin direct from the fleece. Longer, down–cross wools do card well by machine. They are good for dyeing in the fleece because they do not felt easily and dry quickly. The biggest problem I have with spinning the down–type wool is to produce very fine yarns. Although this is partly because of how I spin, it is also affected by the elasticity of the yarn produced. The plied yarns must always be washed before knitting to release the tension. The yarn always becomes shorter and more bulky. You need to check your tension carefully before you start an article. I still find the washed yarn is not as fine as I expect it to be.

Web Link

We were introduced to an interesting web site: U of Oklahoma lists breeds of sheep with details, descriptions, history of the breed. www.ansi.okstate.edu/breeds/sheep/

"How Much Does it Take to Make a Sweater?"

–Reprinted from The Wheel #15 published by Ashford Handicrafts

Not sure whether you have enough fleece for that special project? Paula Vester of Stone Mountain, Georgia, has some good advice. Although most knitters and crocheters buy yarn by the ounce and weavers buy yarns by the yardage, people are always interested in how much raw material it takes to make something.

It is hard to accurately answer that question for all spinners, but some guidelines can be given. One of the reasons for variations is the way that different spinners spin their yarn. If the thread is spun thick, there is less yardage and it will take the same approximate yardage which will weigh more: if the yarn is spun very thin a piece may weigh a lot less.

The form in which you buy the raw material will also determine the amount you will need. If you are buying wool right from the sheep, you will have to wash it and card or comb it for spinning. Depending on the breed of the sheep and the farm it has come from, you can lose up to 50% of that weight in dirt and grease. Some breeds have less grease and some have more: for example, Romneys have less grease than Merinos and Corriedales. With the Romney a spinner may only lose 30%. If you buy ready to spin roving, you will have less waste and can purchase closer to the weight needed for the finished piece.

Knitting takes less yardage and therefore weight than crochet. Weaving can use up yardage because of the loom waste, but the finished pieces may have similar weights as knitting.

Here are some general guidelines:

• an average sized sweater may weigh about 1¼lb (570g)

• a vest may use ¾lb (340g)

• boot socks use about 2–4 oz (60–120g)

• baby clothes like sweaters, dresses, booties and blankets often use up tiny amounts of yarn

• a child's sweater may use less than 8 oz (225g)

Spinners have been dealing with this question for years. Many spinners solve the problem by doubling every amount of raw material they buy for a project, or by simply spinning what they have and then seeing what else must be added to make a finished piece. It takes trial and error but spinners learn their own spinning needs and many remember when their first sweater weighed 3 lbs instead of 1¼lbs.